Change Primary Filter
These instructions are appropriate for the Parker Racor 500 series primary filter system. The details may differ for your situation, but the general principles apply.
- Primary filter is Parker Racor 2010SM-OR 2 micron.
- Wear nitrile gloves. Prepare a plastic bag in which to discard items.
- CLOSE fuel valve (valve handle should be vertical).
- Place oil pads under primary filter housing.
- Open top of primary filter housing by removing the vacuum gauge assembly with a 3/4″ wrench.
- Remove rubber o-ring from primary filter housing lid.
- Find handles on fuel filter and lift out of the housing. Use a screwdriver if necessary to help access the handles.
- Clean out bottom of filter housing?
- Open new filter package. Set aside the additional parts from the package.
- Place new fuel filter into the housing.
- Install new o-ring into the housing lid. Make sure the o-ring is installed without twists.
- Replace the o-ring on the vacuum gauge assembly screw.
- Screw the vacuum gauge assembly back into top of the filter housing. Tighten with wrench but do not overtighten – overtightening can crack the lid.
- OPEN fuel valve (valve handle should be horizontal).
Change Secondary Filter
- Secondary filter is Yanmar part number 129470-55810.
- There will be a lot of fuel in the filter—prepare a jar in which to pour the fuel out of the old filter.
- Place oil pads around and under the filter.
- PULL engine stop cable (stops fuel flow).
- Use oil filter wrench to remove to old filter. The old filter will be full of fuel—try to avoid spilling.
- Pour excess fuel out of filter and into a jar. Discard filter.
- Never put fuel into the secondary filter before installing it! Doing so increases the risk of getting contaminated fuel into the system. Install it dry and prime via the lift pump.
- Lubricate gasket at top of filter with some diesel fuel.
- Screw new filter into place. Stop when you just start to feel resistance. Then use the oil filter wrench to tighten one more full turn.
- DISENGAGE (push in) engine stop cable (permits fuel flow).
Bleed Fuel Lines
Diagrams and a description of the bleeding process can be found in section 6-3 “Air bleeding” (page 29) of the JH(2) Series Diesel Engine Operation Manual.
- Make sure engine stop cable is DISENGAGED (pushed in).
- Make sure fuel valve is OPEN (valve handle should be horizontal).
3. Set throttle to 50% (not in gear).
- Slightly open secondary fuel filter output bolt (the middle one) on top of the secondary fuel filter housing with a 17 mm socket wrench.
- Find the lever on the fuel pump.
- Note, when initially depressing the lever handle, it may get caught on the pump body. If this is the case, gently push the lever below where it gets stuck. It is below this point where depressing the lever actually results in pumping.
- Pump the lever until fuel streams out of the secondary fuel filter output. (This could take a while—200 or more pumps of the lever—if you’ve just replaced the secondary fuel filter.) Tighten the bolt while gently pumping so the the bolt is tightened as fuel is flowing.
8. Loosen the injector pump input bolt with 17 mm socket wrench. Pump the lever until fuel streams out. Tighten the bolt while gently pumping so the the bolt is tightened as fuel is flowing.
- Loosen the fuel return input bolt (the right-most one when facing the front of the engine) on top of the secondary fuel filter housing with a 12 mm socket wrench.
- Pump the lever until fuel dribbles out. Fuel will not stream out as before, since the fuel return line is also connected here.
- Tighten the bolt while fuel is dribbling out. Watch for when the fuel rises and spills out a bit before going down the return line. Try to tighten the bolt while the fuel is rising.
- Clean up any spilled / dribbled fuel.
- Double-check and tighten bleed point bolts.
- Loosen all three injector nuts one full turn with a 17 mm wrench.
- Tug gently upward on each injector line, to unseat it a bit from the injector.
- Wrap each injector nut with a bit of paper towel.
- Ensure raw water intake seacock is CLOSED. Otherwise, engine may back flood with salt water while cranking which would likely destroy the engine!
- Crank the engine for 10 seconds.
- Check the paper towels around the injectors. They should all have a roughly equivalent amount of fuel on them, maybe about 1.5″ diameter blot on the towels.
- If this is not the case, replace with fresh paper towels around the injectors, wait 60 seconds, then repeat from the cranking step.
- Tighten all three injector nuts to torque specified in manual.
- Ensure raw water intake seacock is OPEN.
- Return throttle control to the IDLE position.
- Start the engine. It may be a little rough in the first minute of operation.
- Test in neutral at 2,000 rpm and under load (forward gear) at 1,500 rpm. Engine should run smoothly.
- Check for leaks at fuel lines, filters, and bleed points.
- Grab a beer and relax.